If you slice the ball, you're not alone. By some estimates, over 70% of amateur golfers fight a slice. The ball starts left of your target (for a right-handed golfer), then curves hard to the right — costing you distance, accuracy, and probably a few golf balls per round.

The good news: a slice is not a mystery. It's caused by two measurable things, and once you understand them, you can start fixing it today.

The Chain of Control

Before we get into specifics, here's the mental model that makes everything click:

You control your body → Your body controls the club → The club controls the ball

The ball doesn't know or care about your intentions. It only responds to what the club does at impact — the face angle and the path. The club does what your body tells it to. And your body does what you set it up to do — with your grip, stance, and alignment.

This means every slice fix works backward through the chain: understand what the club is doing wrong, then figure out what your body is doing to cause that, then change the setup or motion that's driving it. That's the approach below.

What Actually Causes a Slice

Every slice comes down to the relationship between two things at impact: your clubface angle and your swing path.

The clubface is open. This is the #1 cause. If the clubface is pointing to the right of your swing path at the moment of impact, the ball gets sidespin that curves it right. The more open the face, the bigger the curve. For most slicers, this is the main problem — the path might be fine, but the face is wide open.

The swing path is out-to-in. This means the club is cutting across the ball from outside the target line to inside it — like a glancing blow. This adds even more sidespin. Many golfers develop this path because they're subconsciously trying to "steer" the ball left to compensate for the open face, which actually makes the slice worse.

Most slicers have both problems working together: an open face and an out-to-in path. The face sends the ball right, the path adds more curve, and the result is a banana ball that starts left and ends up 40 yards right of your target.

Top-down diagram showing how an out-to-in swing path with an open clubface creates sidespin that curves the ball right

Fix #1: Strengthen Your Grip

This is the single most effective change most slicers can make, and it takes five seconds.

Look down at your lead hand (left hand for right-handed golfers) on the club. How many knuckles can you see?

If you see one or zero knuckles, your grip is "weak" — and it's probably the biggest reason your clubface is open at impact. A weak grip makes it physically difficult to square the face in time.

The fix: Rotate your lead hand clockwise on the grip (for right-handers) until you can see two to three knuckles when you look down. The "V" formed by your thumb and index finger should point toward your right shoulder, not your chin. Match your trail hand so both hands work together.

This feels weird at first. That's normal. A stronger grip pre-sets the face in a more closed position, so it's naturally closer to square at impact without you having to manipulate anything. Many golfers see an immediate difference — sometimes on the very next swing.

Fix #2: Check Your Alignment

Here's a frustrating irony: most slicers aim too far left to compensate for their slice, which actually makes the slice worse.

When your body is aimed left, your natural swing path becomes even more out-to-in (across the ball). More out-to-in path = more sidespin = bigger slice. It's a vicious cycle.

The fix: On the range, lay a club or alignment stick on the ground pointed at your target. Set your feet, hips, and shoulders parallel to it — not aimed at the target, but parallel to the line. This feels like you're aiming right if you've been compensating, but it gives your swing room to travel down the target line instead of cutting across it.

Fix #3: Feel the Club "Close"

Many slicers hold the clubface open through impact because they never learned to release the club — to let the face rotate from open to square to closed through the hitting zone.

A drill that works: Take half swings with a 7-iron. At the finish, check the toe of the club — it should be pointing up or slightly left. If the face is pointing at the sky, you're holding it open. Focus on feeling your forearms rotate through impact, like you're turning a doorknob to the left (for right-handers). The club should feel like it's "closing" through the ball, not staying open.

Start with small, slow swings. The feeling is subtle — you're not flipping your wrists, you're allowing a natural rotation that your grip may have been preventing.

Fix #4: Swing More from the Inside

If your path is out-to-in (cutting across the ball), you need to feel like the club is approaching from inside the target line.

The headcover drill: Place a headcover about 6 inches behind the ball and slightly outside the target line. If your downswing is out-to-in, you'll hit the headcover. The goal is to swing down and miss the headcover to the inside, which forces an in-to-out path.

The "drop the hands" feel: From the top of your backswing, feel like your hands drop straight down before you start turning toward the target. Slicers tend to throw the club outward from the top (called "coming over the top"), which creates the out-to-in path. Dropping the hands first gives the club room to approach from inside.

Fair warning: when you first start swinging from the inside with an open face, the ball will go straight right (a push). That's actually progress — it means your path is better, and now you just need to square the face (see Fix #1 and #3).

Fix #5: Ball Position

If the ball is too far forward in your stance (toward your lead foot), you're giving the clubface more time to open before impact. This is especially common with the driver, where golfers sometimes play the ball off their front toe.

The fix: For the driver, play the ball just inside your lead heel — not off the toe. For irons, the ball should be roughly centered in your stance, moving slightly forward for longer clubs. Even an inch too far forward can contribute to an open face at impact.

Can Equipment Help?

Yes — but equipment is a supplement to the fixes above, not a replacement. A draw-biased driver won't fix a 40-yard slice, but it can turn a 15-yard fade into a straight ball.

What to look for in a driver:

  • Draw bias — internal weighting shifted toward the heel promotes a right-to-left ball flight
  • Offset — the face sits slightly behind the hosel, giving it a fraction more time to square up
  • High MOI — a more forgiving head reduces the penalty for off-center hits, which often make a slice worse
  • Adjustable hosel — lets you close the face 1-2 degrees at address, giving you a head start toward square

Our driver quiz has a "fix my miss" option that specifically recommends draw-biased, high-forgiveness drivers matched to your skill level and budget.

Training aids: The training aid quiz can match you with aids designed for swing path and face control. Alignment sticks, swing path trainers, and impact bags can all reinforce the feels described above.

The Order of Operations

If you're serious about fixing your slice, work on these in order:

  1. Grip — this is the foundation. A weak grip makes everything else harder.
  2. Alignment — stop aiming left. It feeds the problem.
  3. Face control — learn to release the club through impact.
  4. Swing path — once the face is squarer, work on an inside approach.
  5. Equipment — once your swing changes are taking hold, the right driver amplifies the improvement.

Most golfers who commit to the grip change and alignment fix see a meaningful difference within a range session or two. The slice doesn't have to be permanent.

Find a Driver That Helps

Our driver quiz has a dedicated path for golfers fighting a slice. Tell us about your game and budget, and we'll match you with drivers specifically designed to reduce your miss.

Take the Driver Quiz →